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A glimpse into historic Iftar of Dhaka

Published : Saturday, 15 March, 2025 at 12:00 AM  Count : 1593
Ridwan Akram
In 1610 or 1611, Mughal commander Mirza Nathan found himself in a state of discontent. Faced with the prospect of observing Ramadan in Bengal, far from the established arrangements for Iftar in Agra, he sought solace in the company of his friend, Mirza Alam Beg. A pre-arranged Iftar at Mirza Alam Beg's tent drew numerous individuals from various ranks of the army.

Mirza Nathan's arrival was slightly delayed. Upon entering the tent, he observed a substantial gathering and a respectable arrangement for the Iftar meal. The account of this Ramadan observance, as documented in Mirza Nathan's Baharistan-i-Ghaybi, bears resemblance to this scene, albeit outside Dhaka. Nonetheless, it is reasonable to infer that the Mughal presence in Dhaka, then the capital of Mughal Bengal, adhered to similar customs.

The Introduction of Mughal Cuisine to Dhaka: Four centuries ago, the Muslim population of Dhaka was relatively small. However, the arrival of the Mughals precipitated a shift. Fasting practices were primarily confined to the upper echelons of society, namely the Mughals. These individuals brought their own culinary staff, ensuring the availability of familiar fare. They partook in various types of bread and kebabs.

Nan-taftan, an almond-infused nan roti, was prevalent in the Mughal army camp in Dhaka.
Wealthy Muslims of the time partook in approximately fifty distinct dishes. Among these were biryani, kimchi, pulao, and bakarkhani, some of which may have been included in Mughal Iftar meals.

In 1639, Shah Shuja assumed the position of Subadar of Bengal. During his tenure, three hundred Shia families arrived in Dhaka, introducing Khorasani pulao. The Mughals also prepared a dish akin to modern-day Haleem, incorporating meat, spices, lemon juice, and wheat.

Beyond savory dishes, sweet preparations were also popular during the Mughal era. Chawkbazar in Dhaka was renowned for its Jilapi, and during Ramadan, women prepared Kata Sandesh. Chawkbazar, then known as Badshahi Bazar, served as the focal point for the Iftar market.

Chawkbazar's Central Role in Traditional Dhaka Iftar: In the mid-nineteenth century, preparations for Ramadan commenced after Shab-e-Barat. At that time, Iftar was referred to as "roza kholai," signifying the breaking of the fast with food. Preparations for Iftar began in every household after Zuhr prayer.

Women would proceed to the kitchen, where pre-soaked chickpeas and moong dal were prepared. Phuluri was made from the chopped dal, with efforts made to serve it hot during Iftar. Upon hearing the call to prayer, Iftar would commence with sherbet mixed with Zamzam water. Following the sherbet, dates were consumed. Subsequently, the main Iftar meal would begin, with individuals of all ages gathering at the dastarkhan. Various homemade muri dishes, sweet and savory samosas, raw and fried dals, fruits, onions, and phuluri were procured from the market. A sweet mixed food called "Golapi Ukhre" was also present, alongside roasted chira, dobhaja, tepi phuluri, large mashkalai dal-boot, bakarkhani, and kebabs.

While diverse Iftar preparations were made at home, residents of Old Dhaka consistently acquired items from Chawkbazar. Both the affluent and the less privileged frequented the chowk. At that time, Iftar gatherings were also organized in mosques throughout Dhaka, with affluent residents providing Iftar meals to neighborhood mosques. Even in the early 20th century, the term "Iftar market" in Dhaka exclusively referred to Chawkbazar.

Evolution and Enduring Legacy of Dhaka Iftar: However, in the 1940s, the situation began to evolve, with temporary Iftar stalls emerging in neighborhoods due to increased demand. Following the Partition of 1947, the growth of the middle class in Dhaka led to the incorporation of pitha-puli from rural Bengal into Iftar. After the independence of Bangladesh, the scale and diversity of Ramadan and Iftar arrangements increased significantly.

Nevertheless, Chawkbazar remains synonymous with the tradition and taste of Iftar. Iftar sales commence after 12 noon, with approximately 10,000 customers patronizing the market daily.

The current Iftar menu in Chawkbazar includes Suti Kebab, Bora Baper Pola Khai Thonga Bhoira Leiya Yai, Shahi Haleem, Dahi Bara, Chicken Roast, Whole Lamb Shank, Chicken Kati, Roast Quail, and Shahi Jilapi, with each jilapi weighing one to two kilograms.

The selection of sharbat beverages encompasses a diverse range. Additionally, Falooda, Borhani, and Labang are offered.
In summation, it can be asserted that Dhaka, the capital city with a four-hundred-year history, has consistently catered to the palates of those observing the fast with a wide array of delectable Iftar offerings.


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